Strolling through the streets of NYC at the present means you simply cannot escape Baz Luhrmann’s F. Scott Fitzgerald’s The Great Gatsby at any moment. Subway stations, bulletin boards, newspapers… all are full of ads for the latest adaptation starring Leonardo DiCaprio, Carey Mulligan, Tobey Maguire, Isla Fisher, Joel Edgerton, Jason Clarke and Adelaide Clemens. While the world premiere took place just recently, the official release of the movie will be May 10 in the US.
Gatsby Film Cover
Time for us to take an in depth look at some of the over 500 men’s costumes used in the movie. Since all of them were made by Brooks Brothers their Southwick, MA facility, I had to visit the company’s flagship store on 346 Madison Ave to learn more about it. BB created a small selection of clothes inspired by the movie and the era that is currently for sale. According to Jason Nickel, the first pieces are already sold out and so I wanted to focus on the collection, its authenticity and some of the film costumes exhibited in the Brooks Brothers store.
Evening Dress & White Tie ensemble made by Brooks Brothers for the Gatsby movie
346 Madison Ave
This is first time that I have had the opportunity to see the entire building and overall I was quite pleased. Once I stepped through the original 1915 pewter doors, the first thing I saw was red carpet, palm trees, a big chandelier, Gatsby posters and the costumes in the aisle. The largest Brooks Brothers store was nicely decorated and a large portion of the first floor was dedicated to their Gatsby collection. To my surprise, they displayed more than their film merchandise, so many costumes that were actually used in the movie were on view.
Gatsby Club blazer display at Brooks Brothers on Madison Ave
The blazers were bold and fun but it definitely takes a more extroverted personality to wear them.
Midnight blue tailcoat with patent leather suede button boots
Surprisingly, Brooks Brothers had quite a few tailcoats on display, but sadly they did not offer one as part of their collection although they still sell their regular white tie ensembles. I immediately spotted the vintage features of the cut, such as a very high rise of the pants and the shoulder seams. Of course, the fit was off because they were presented on mannequins but they still looked distinctly vintage. On the other hand, the buttonholes were of much poorer quality and more in line what you are used to from modern machine made garments. Unlike Southern Europeans, Americans were early adapters of machines in clothing production. Still, it did not seem true vintage at all, and so it was not surprising to hear that these were the tailcoats used in the movie, made in the modern Brooks Brothers factory in Southwick.
Stunning evening dress & Gatsby tailcoat with 2 decorative buttons on each side
Note the two decorative buttons rather than two on each side…
Vintage reproduction shawl collar tux with flaps from the Gatsby Collection
Although the British would never have put flaps on a proper dinner jacket, Americans experimented more and added flaps on their tuxedos. Note the short shawl collar that widens at the bottom – this is a distinct vintage look that you won’t find today unless you specifically tailor a piece for this look.
Black tie Gatsby selection at Brooks Brothers
BB reproduction of old tailcoats from old patterns
Midnight blue Herringbone tailcoat & tuxedo frame marvelous Gatsby evening gown
I am not sure how popular midnight blue tailcoats were in the 20′s but this herringbone version seems quite bold to me.
Original vintage tailcoat from Brooks Brothers – Look at the height of the collar, bow tie and tailoring of the coat – superior to the reproductions in all respects
Brooks Brothers also issued some pictures from their archive showing their vintage coats. Overall the cut as well as the details are superior to the reproductions. For example, look at the shape of the lapel, the bow tie as well as the detachable wing collar – all spot on.
Adjustable bow tie & boutonniere without a loop
Now compare it to the modern day version – the bow tie reveals the side adjuster – an absolute don’t – and the boutonniere dangles on the side because it lacks a boutonniere loop.
Midnight blue herringbone tailcoat from the movie – not available to the public
Typical 1920′s short shawl collar lapel
The Gatsby Collection by Brooks Brothers
As you can imagine, BB only reproduced a small portion of the Gatsby costumes for the public, because it is a very specific style. Some of the pieces are already sold out – the pink linen striped suit is not one of them, which seems hardly surprising. It was probably meant to be an eye catcher, not a best seller.
Gatsby collection at the 5th floor Brooks Brother 346 Madison Ave
Gatsby collection accessories & spectator shoes
I like the fact that BB brought back the boater, because it is difficult to find vintage ones in large sizes.
Selection of garments for the Gatsby collection
Gatsby Bow Tie selection
Interestingly, they also offered white bow ties in silk although they did not offer a tailcoat – maybe they were inspired by Obama’s outfit with a dinner jacket and white tie…
Evening pumps by Peal Co
Green shawl collar cardigan – can be purchased.
The green shawl collar cardigan was one of the pieces that made it from the actual movies to the store shelves. Overall I find it quite well designed and I hope the cotton is of decent quality but only time will tell.
Original Brooks Brothers Boater hats
Tattersall & Gingham inspired vest
Contrasting vests seem to be increasingly popular and they are indeed a fantastic way to change up your outfits.
Brooks Brothers Gatsby Decoration
White herringbone linen suit with blue shirt and collar bar
Single breasted peaked lapel suits are a bit more glamorous than their notched lapel counterparts. As such, Tom Ford has always been an avid supporter of this style and since it was also popular in the 1920′s it is just normal to see this style in the Gatsby collection. Also, collar pins and bars were omnipresent – I hope to see more of them in the street style pictures shortly.
Pink linen suit close-up with repp tie & collar bar
Glamourous Display with Moet & Chandon bottles
Pink striped linen suit
First floor Gatsby display
Pros & Cons
Although I liked the general approach to the Gatsby collection, and the fact that BB put some effort into making the style accessible to a larger audience with lighter fabrics and modern day construction, the pictures of the models wearing the clothes are not flattering – once you examine the details. Cuffs are way too wide, shirt collars are overly large, shoes don’t fit, etc. I really wonder who was responsible for these pictures.
I look forward to see the fit of the clothes in the movie and I will discuss authenticity once the movie is actually in theaters. Based on my past experiences, I am sure, the fit will not be anything worth mentioning and it won’t be authentic either, but Baz Luhrman is not exactly a stickler for 100% reproduction, so that’s fine. Nevertheless, it must be mentioned that the British generally do a much better job providing authentic clothing, and make the show hugely popular – Downton Abbey is a good example of that.
What do you think of the Gatsby Collection?
Green Shawl collar cardigan with leather buttons Brooks Brothers Gatsby Collection
Striped blazer with gold buttons – Gatsby collection
Just look at these cuffs and the way the trousers fall.
Navy Blazer with piping – Brooks Brothers Gatsby Collection
Brooks Brothers Gatsby combination with vest & belt
Belts with vests – a classic faux pas.
Gatsby Collection tuxedo with peaked lapels, flap pockets and patterned SB vest
Gatsby Collection white herringbone single breasted suit with peaked lapel
What do you think of the collection?